First Published on October 6, 2023
During our road trip across Ladakh, I had envisioned myself cruising along the iconic Khardung La road or exploring the stunning Nubra Valley . However, something unexpected happened. As I embarked on the journey, I felt an inexplicable pull towards Turtuk, the northernmost village of India, situated beyond which lies the Pakistan-administered Gilgit-Baltistan. It was as if an invisible force compelled us towards this lesser-known destination. We decided to veer off the beaten path. Little did we know that this detour would lead us to an unforgettable adventure. A truly unique experience unlike anything we had imagined before.
This village nestled in the northwestern part of Ladakh, was a truly special place. Surrounded by tall mountains and stunning landscapes, it was so peaceful and serene. As I walked through the village, I couldn’t help but be awed by the old buildings and their stories. Turtuk was like a hidden treasure, untouched by time. It was a unique and unforgettable experience, a chapter in my journey.
The journey to Turtuk was an awe-inspiring and challenging adventure. Starting from Leh, the major city in Ladakh, the day-long travel involved conquering the daunting Khardung La, the highest motorable pass globally. As I embarked on this remarkable journey, I was filled with determination to witness the wonders of Turtuk firsthand. The breathtaking mountain vistas, accompanied by the nerve-wracking climb, created an exhilarating experience that only intensified my excitement. I eagerly anticipated immersing myself in Turtuk’s stunning beauty and engaging with its extraordinary culture.
As I rode my bike through the transforming landscapes, from rocky pathways to a surreal white desert, the beauty of the journey unfolded before me. Majestic glaciers had given way to endless sand dunes, with vibrant purples and greens adorning craggy mountains that emerged in the distance. The narrow passes tested my skills, as other vehicles whizzed by, resulting in close encounters and even a lost side mirror. It was a thrilling adventure that showcased the unimaginable beauty of nature. Since, the road, tracing the Shyok River, carried me steadily towards Turtuk near the Pakistan border, evoking a sense of ancient history of of the Silk Road. The proximity to another country added an intriguing layer to the journey. It reminded me of the interconnectedness of these lands and the stories they held.
Feeling nauseated and besieged by thirst, I arrived awash with relief.
Turtuk, with its picturesque stone houses nestled beneath the majestic Karakoram mountain range, instantly left me in awe. Moreover, the mustard-yellow barley fields, shimmering in the warm light of the late afternoon sun, added an extra layer of beauty to this already enchanting village. It was a scene that filled me with joy and gratitude with wonders of nature.
Claimed by Pakistan after the end of British rule in 1947, this tiny village was subsequently annexed to India in 1971 during the Indo-Pakistani war. This significant event occurred when the province of Gilgit-Baltistan was partitioned between the two countries. Consequently, residents of Tyakshi, Thang, Chalunka, and Turtuk went to bed in Pakistan and woke up in India the next morning. In fact, it remained closed to outsiders – until locals, weary of their long isolation, petitioned for the remote, scenic valley to open up. Therefore, as curious visitors, drawn by Turtuk’s geopolitical allure, began to trickle in, they found themselves in one of India’s last rural idylls.
Its isolation, coupled with the fact that it stands as an intriguing exception within Buddhist Ladakh, being predominantly Balti people, adds to its mystique. Turtuk’s past reveals a remarkable story of being a vital gateway on the ancient Silk Road, connecting India to far-flung lands like China, Persia, and Rome. The village’s inhabitants, a fascinating blend of Tibetan and Indo-Aryan descent, resonate with the vibrant tapestry of cultures, reflecting Baltistan’s historical role as a confluence of people, traditions, and goods. Turtuk’s humble existence also echoes the memories of the Aryan Valleys in Afghanistan’s Hindu Kush mountains, the last remnants of a hypothetical ancestral group. It’s a reminder of the interwoven threads of history, where even the remotest of villages hold the key to unraveling the shared heritage of civilization’s past.
Nevertheless, the village sustains between these two countries. With no wifi, few homestays, limited electricity and a distinct local language (Balti), this self-sustaining border village retains the feel of another era. Eventually, I walked the village beholding surreal beauty of the surroundings and reached my homestay.
“Zullay, It’s nice to see you. ,”greeted Ismail Balti, 40, owner of Sukoon Homestay, one of the few accommodations that now fill the isolated village.
Further, I checked-in and tended to visit Ismail’s restaurant, a short walk from his homestay down a knot of narrow footpaths, I replenished with chapatis and ginger tea. A kid in a charcoal-coloured attire called me over. Carrying fruits in the folds of his hands, he gestured for me to take my pick. I bit into a fleshy, sugar-sweet apricot, breaking into a genuine grin. It was deliriously tasty.
“Have more!” he shrieked, seeing my smile. I asked where he had collected them. “Come,” an older one replied. “We will show you.”
Eventually, I followed them outside towards the fields. I catched my breath as we climbed up a narrow path filled with water streams from the glacier runoff that irrigates the village. Indeed, The area was surrounded by tall, spiky trees. As we reached a flat, green field, it felt like we were at the same height as the nearby mountains.
The kids, tiptoeing across a crumbling stone wall, reached with both hands into the treetops.
“Here!” they cried, clutching armfuls of pale yellow fruit. “Take more! Take more!” I asked if I could help gather apricots. They waved me aside. “It’s too dangerous for you,” the little one chided.
Balti hospitality is the stuff of legend, which I saw again when altitude sickness hit on my second day. No doubt. Ismail and his family looked after me in every way.
When I recovered over yak butter tea, I mingled with some of the village elders. I asked them about the culture and tradition of Turtuk. Eventually, they told me about the vivid festivals of Baltistan and the Manasarovar Festival, which recently took place in August. It is celebrated with great enthusiasm. Nevertheless, visitors from across the globe visit the region to witness colorful processions, traditional music and dance performances, and participate in various cultural activities. These festivities provide a deeper understanding of the village’s cultural significance and create lasting memories for them. They also recommended that I visit the Balti Museum, an old museum preserving balti culture. So, I visited the museum located some distance from there.
THE BALTI HERITAGE MUSEUM
The Heritage house was a 140-year-old mansion museum that was built in the classical Balti style. Formerly, It used to be a royal residence and was converted into a museum. The architectural design of the house was a testament to the craftsmanship of the Balti style. Nevertheless, It has a beautiful wood and stone carvings that give it a charming and enchanting look.
Evidently, the museum was a treasure trove of artifacts spanning centuries, including traditional clothing, tools, agricultural implements, religious artifacts, musical instruments, and household items. Additionally, one section offered a fascinating glimpse into the daily life of the Balti people, showcasing their distinctive clothing, culinary traditions, and agricultural practices. It truly was a captivating and immersive experience, a window into what history truly looks like. I spent a considerable time in the museum and eventually headed back to my homestay.
To sum up, I stayed in Turtuk for two days and learned so much about the village. Whether it was the warm welcoming nature of locals or an incredible visit to 140 year old Heritage museum, Turtuk was a place where visitors can learn about Baltistan’s traditional practices and customs, participate in their festivals and witness their remarkable hospitality.
GETTING THERE
You can fly to Leh from Delhi on one of many domestic airlines that serve the route. To reach Turtuk (203 km), you can book a private cab for INR 7,000-9,000 from the Leh taxi stand. The Balti Heritage House and Museum can be reached by walking up the Farol side of Turtuk.
STAY
Turtuk offers a variety of homestay options for travelers. These homestays provide accommodation and all-day dining, with a Balti organic farm ensuring that guests have the option of savouring authentic farm-to-table local cuisine.
MUSEUM
The Balti Heritage House and Museum is open every day from 08:00 am to 08:00 pm. Entry at INR 50 per person.
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Read my post on Nubra Valley: A 3 Day Itinerary
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